On coffee shops (in Nairobi)

I’m a big fan of coffee shops. Of course, I love coffee – good coffee – but, in my opinion, a good coffee shop should offer more than that: baristas that know what they’re talking about, tasty confections, interesting patrons (interesting to look at, at least), character (something unique or defining), and, most importantly, an appealing and comfortable environment to enjoy the shop’s namesake along with a conversation, book, magazine/paper, or computer (which may itself contain a conversation or reading material).

Unfortunately, in Chicago one’s options are remarkably thin. The number of “independent” coffee shops I know numbers less than the count of my fingers, although to be fair I’ve only truly explored a few of the city’s neighborhoods. In the Loop, especially, Starbucks is nauseatingly ubiquitous. As the preceding sentence implies, I’m not a fan: despite the chain’s mission to “cater to a lifestyle, not just coffee” (I made that up, but you know what I’m talking about), most of it’s shops fail to offer the abovementioned ancillary facilities, particularly the last two. (There are some exceptions, like Chicago’s expansive, always-packed North/Wells branch or the outlet fitted onto a triangle-corner in Washington’s DuPont Circle.) I still visit the establishment – frequently in fact, due to the noted lack of options – but typically in a merely transactional rather than lingering capacity.

What does all this have to do with Africa? Well there are no Starbuck’s here, a fact that, despite the paragraph above, was at first discouraging due to the oft-mentioned prevalence of instant coffee. (Side note: there are also no McDonald’s here, which is quite surprising given my past travel experiences; a quick check at mcdonalds.com confirms there are no franchises between Egypt and South Africa.) But, as I soon found out and have previously mentioned, there are indeed coffee houses in Nairobi.

To this point, I’ve visited five different outlets: Dorman’s, Savana, Coffee World, Nairobi Java House, and Artcaffe. All but the first, unlike most coffee chains in the US, are more café than coffee shop – offering a full range of food in addition to non-takeaway coffee and tea. It’s certainly not Paris or Buenos Aires, but the city’s café culture has got a leg up on Chicago. Below, are some thoughts on each of the five.

Dorman’s is the simplest of the bunch. The coffee is pretty good, but the baked goods are sub-par, and the shop itself is typically very basic: a few tables with hard-backed chairs. The focus is on the coffee alone, and on that note it is not bad. But, on the broader measures of a coffee shop it falls short. (“The coffee experts” also have a plethora of packaged coffees on grocery store shelves.)

Savana is a newcomer to the scene, from what I gather. I ventured to the city center last weekend to meet a friend here. The ambience was quite nice: a covered patio with wicker furniture out front, and a loungey feel inside. My order precludes me from making a call on this place though. I ordered a “salad”, which arrived as parallel strips of raw vegetables (carrots, tomatoes, cucumbers, onions) and a side of honey mustard dressing, and a cappuccino – neither of which provide a good enough gauge on the quality of the establishments food or drink. Verdict TBD.

I learned of Coffee World after catching a glimpse of a bulletin board posting with a surprisingly familiar slogan: “March Madness”. Excited, as I thought it might be for a bar where I could watch the Michigan Wolverines make their first tournament appearance (and win) in a decade, I moved closer and then saw the words “buy one get one free on food and drink” under the headline. Even better, I thought. Then my eyes moved up and I noticed the classic coffee cup logo (mug slightly tilted with heat waves emanating above) beside the shop’s name. Wasn’t a bar I concluded, but it did seem like a good deal, so I decided to check it out one day for lunch. The décor implied that it was a fairly new establishment, but the special appeared to be working: It was prime lunch-hour (~1pm) and the place was packed. Good sign, I thought. I grabbed a seat at a table on the narrow outdoor patio and opened the menu.

Twenty minutes later, I still had not placed an order. A waiter had approached within my first few minutes there, but left and never returned after I had asked whether I could substitute a free drink, instead of a second pizza, for the buy one get one offer. I was there alone, and hence didn’t want two pizzas, plus the drink is cheaper than the pizza, I had explained. But, as has happened several times in other restaurants since I’ve been here, such an uncommon request left the man puzzled. In the Kenyan service sector, catering to the customer still hasn’t fully developed, nor has a sense of urgency; workers cling strictly to the definitions supplied by their bosses, and do not think twice about taking ten minutes to get you a bottle of ketchup while your omelet grows cold. (It’s not as bad as Rwanda though, I hear, where it is a guarantee – no matter the place, time of day, or order – that it will take an hour for your food to arrive.)

Eventually, I flagged a waiter down and ordered an espresso and (two) pizzas. The espresso arrived somewhat promptly, and was good; it was the first espresso I’ve ordered here and won’t be my last. Another twenty minutes passed, and still no pizza. The waiter assured me it would be out in a couple minutes, but by then I had to get back to work so had it packed up. Turned out to be rather tasty, but the service left a bad taste in my mouth. I’ll probably go back, but only for take-away.

Nairobi Java House it the “500 pound gorilla” in the Kenyan coffee house industry. Shortened to just “Java,” it is often referred to, in Starbucks-like fashion, almost as a synonym for café, as in, “There must be a Java somewhere around here.” Thankfully though, it’s not quite reached the level of ubiquity that allows for outlets directly across the street from each other. The coffee is very good, and they offer a broad selection of teas and espresso-based concoctions as well. Furthermore, the energetic crowd, comfortable seating, free wifi and in-seat computer plugs make it a good place to burn a few hours reading, or blogging. The food, however, leaves something to be desired. The menu is expansive, with burritos, veggie burgers, and pasta among the many options, and the all day breakfast, including waffles and huevos rancheros, is unparalleled. The result is disappointing, though; based on my two experiences there, both involving Mexican items, the food itself leaves something to be desired. Verdict: a great coffee shop, but get your lunch elsewhere.

Artcaffe is another newcomer to the scene, but has made a big splash. Not only is it located in Nairobi’s newest shopping mall, the pristine Westgate Center, but it occupies the mall’s premier space. Situated in the front corner of the first floor, the space has a free-flowing entrance with a bakery counter jutting out from the main store into the mall’s common space. Next to this stands an old school coffee roasting machine, greeting you along with two hostesses as you enter the broad, high-ceilinged room replete with modern furniture and non-uniform seating options, the barista counter and bar, and a glass-enclosed kitchen. At the other side of the room, the café spills out onto a long, umbrella-covered terrace – the mall’s only outdoor space. If that sounds like a grand description, good; it’s supposed to.

My first visit to Artcaffe was a Saturday morning a couple weeks ago. I’d heard of it, and the outdoor terrace at Westgate always intrigued me though until then I did not know to which establishment it belonged. (I’d been frequenting Java up until that point because it was closer to my prior apartment.) Upon entering the space, I was immediately impressed by the chic-ness of the place, apparent not just in the décor but in the clientele as well. I requested a table outside, and was relegated to a high table on the fringe of the umbrellas’ coverage, as every other seat was full. Within a couple minutes I was presented the menu, which was not nearly as long as the Java House’s. In fact, there were only two breakfast options: the “Artcaffe breakfast”, consisting of eggs your way, fresh bread, and “five spreads” – butter, jam, cheeses, and guacamole, and what sounded like a granola-fruit-yogurt dish. It was the first time I’d seen a parfait in Kenya, and opted for that, along with a cappuccino.

The friendly hostess and prompt waiter were initial indicators that the service was unusually good, and the signs continued. Perhaps the most memorable indicator came a few minutes after I ordered, when my waiter came back to place my utensils and the sugar tray. He did not merely place them though, he dutifully arranged them piece by piece: first laying the napkin, straightening it, placing the large tablespoon squarely in the middle, then placing the sugar tray and shifting it to a perpendicular angle with the tip of the napkin. The process took just a few seconds, but it was most impressive, almost as if he were doing this in slow motion.

My cappuccino soon arrived. I did not see the teaspoon hidden behind the mug so instead used the tablespoon to stir in my sugar. My waiter noticed and tried to hide a puzzled look. A moment later I saw the teaspoon and realized why; two minutes later the waiter returned with a new tablespoon. The granola arrived ten minutes later, but was not what I’d expected. Instead of granola with fruit and yogurt, it was yogurt with fruit and granola sprinkled somewhat sparingly. I had a few bits (sips) and decided this wasn’t for me. Despite my previous experiences with the rigidity of customer service in this country, I decided to tell the waiter. He said he’d see what he could do; shortly thereafter, a woman arrived and happily offered to take the dish back. In the States, this would be standard procedure. But in Kenya, it is exceptional, based on my experience thus far. I substituted the granola with a chocolate croissant, which was excellent. The cappuccino was also quite good.

I sat out there on the terrace for another couple hours, reading the Economist and people watching. It was definitely a great place for the latter; not only due to the other patrons, but, the more I looked around, the more I noticed that almost all the waitresses were good looking, a few strikingly so. Eventually, I ordered lunch of a caprese sandwich and pineapple-mint juice. The juice was fantastic, but the sandwich was not: the mozzarella was not fresh mozzarella, and the bread-to-contents proportion was way off. Others seemed to be enjoying their food though, and the pizza’s I saw looked very good, so I needed to give the food another shot before making a conclusion.

While people watching, I noticed a woman sitting with a French press beside her mug. Yes, the coffee here is served in an individual press; a touch of character, some might say. On my second trip (the next day), I ordered this and was not disappointed: very good – though not great –, and strong, coffee. Moreover, the Sunday shift of waitresses was even more pleasing to the eye as Saturday’s.

On my third trip, I tried the pizza, which was much better than the sandwich, and a dessert. After debating between three chocolate and coffee cakes, I settled on a warm chocolate brownie with ice cream. For some reason, the manager who had been showing me the desserts (another good looking woman) returned with the item and asked me if it was my first time visiting the cafe. No, I said, I’d actually been there yesterday. Well, either way, the dessert was on the house, she said before smiling and walking away. A fitting end to a weekend at the Artcaffe.

Verdict: Nairobi’s best café, for sure.